Martin:
And so across the border from Rwanda into Uganda. First impressions - Uganda seems far more relaxed than Rwanda. Immediately apparent by the number of motorcyclists none of whom are wearing helmets despite the law being that they should. In Rwanda that rules are strictly enforced; in Uganda the police turn a blind eye. It's not that helmets are particularly expensive in Uganda, nor that Ugandans have an urge to rebel once on two wheels. No the real reason, we were assured later, is to do with the number of hair salons in the country. Good hair is important to Ugandans and they're not about to have it spoilt by a helmet. If you're going to be mown down by a truck you might as well look good!
Dodging the haircuts we headed south west into the corner of Uganda that borders both Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. We're only a few miles away from Mount Bisoko, which we climbed a couple of days ago. Today it was back into the forest but this time with three Batwa guides. The Batwa are a pygmy tribe - the original hunter-gatherer inhabitants of these forests. When the forest was designated as a national park in the early 90s the Batwa were evicted. Since they had no title to land they received no compensation. They were forced to live as tenants on the surrounding farmlands - an alien, unforested land. Today the Batwa are banned from hunting in Mgahinga National Park but poaching still goes on. Our three guides had been caught poaching some years earlier and in lieu of a fine had opted to re-train as guides. Today they help run the newly established Batwa trail - a joint venture with the Uganda Wildlife Authority - that helps promote and preserve the Batwa way of life and brings some much needed revenue to the community.
They threw themselves into the experience with gusto. Gleefully showing us how they could catch and kill an imaginary water buffalo or use snares to trap small game. We were shown which plants were good to eat and which ones could be used to counter the affects of poisons. One rather graphic acting out of the effects an emetic would have to flush toxins out of one's system will live with me for sometime!
The trip ended with a descent into a magnificent underground cave system which had been both a spiritual centre and a place of refuge during times of conflict. Emerging back into the light the day ended with a traditional dance - this bit seemed a little bit touristy but was worth it for the surprise appearance of a guest dancer !!